Helen Bach
(K=2331) - Comment Date 5/22/2006
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It sounds like remaining sensitisation dye. Is the stain even or patchy? Faint and even isn't really a problem, but dark and patchy might mean that your film is improperly fixed. How do you decide when to change your fixer? T-Max films exhaust fixer faster than other films because of the higher silver iodide content.
Try refixing and rewashing if it is a problem. As you say that it is a slight stain, it may not be anything to worry about.
Best,
Helen
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Christopher Robinson
(K=139) - Comment Date 5/22/2006
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Hi Helen,
Thanks for your comment. It's more like an even stain that fades off here and there. It's ever so slight. If it happens again, I'll know to put it back in the fixer for a wee bit more.
Thanks!!
Christopher
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Phillip Cohen
(K=9520) - Comment Date 5/22/2006
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Chistopher, I give TMAX a little extra time in the fixer to get rid of that purple color. It is very common, If I recall I give it 11 minutes using Polymax T Fixer. That is in a Jobo rotary processor so it is also continuous agitation, it may take a little longer with manual agitation.
Phil
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Jeroen Wenting
(K=24628) - Comment Date 5/22/2006
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yes, sounds like depleted fixer.
Mix yourself a new batch.
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Frank J. Schifano
(K=52) - Comment Date 8/18/2006
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How are you washing your film? I ask this because it might not be that your fixer is shot. A good soak with some agitation in a few changes of processing temperature water will get rid of the tint in these films. So before you go throwing good chemistry down the drain, look to your wash procedures.
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Jeroen Wenting
(K=24628) - Comment Date 8/18/2006
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my normal procedure is to soak for several minutes, than agitate, then soak again in fresh water, than let it sit in flowing water for like 5 minutes.
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Frank J. Schifano
(K=52) - Comment Date 8/22/2006
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OK, you're halfway there. First, make sure your fixer is not shot by testing it with a film leader. Take a piece of undeveloped film and soak it in some preocessing temperature water for a few minutes. Then take this piece and immerse it in fresh fixer. It should clear in 3 to 4 minutes depending on the film. Do this test repeatedly with each roll of film you develop. When the clearing time gets close to doubling the original time, the fixer is nearing exhaustion and should be tossed.
Your wash procedures should be ok for most normal films, but TMax films are a bit more demanding. I'm fairly sure that there is no residual hypo in your film, but the dye usually takes a little more effort to clear. Try using more agitation and more frequent water changes. Look up the Ilford wash method and double everything. That should clear it up.
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Christopher Robinson
(K=139) - Comment Date 8/30/2006
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Thank you all!!! It was indeed a fixer problem... I was using the wrong mixture amounts (not enough!). Since then, all T-MAX rolls have come out spectacular. Until today!
I ran out of about 2ml of the second fixer ingredient... and that was enough to cause the purplish-redish hue to come back... but I stuck it back in (the other half of that fixer) for 6 more minutes, and that made a big difference. Looks like I will be running to the photo store tomorrow to get a decent supply of fixer. Definitely do not want that to happen again.
Also, I discovered that my chemistry was never really at 68 degrees when I was using the chill-down with the tub of water technique. Now, I stick the bottles in the fridge until the developer temperature is just right. Seems to work awesome!
Thanks again everyone!
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