Matej Maceas
(K=24381) - Comment Date 9/15/2005
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Eric Peterson
(K=4213) - Comment Date 9/16/2005
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charles gurkin
(K=20) - Comment Date 2/1/2006
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I am a sometimes user of paper negatives. I shoot almost totally retro. What you mention is exactly how it is done. Presently I am shooting in 4x5 with a contrast 3 rc paper. After shooting the film at asa 10 or less (you have to start there and work it out exactly) I develop it in a peanut butter jar with a home made light baffle.
I use a dektol type clone, mixed for contact prints. I develop it for six minutes with constant aggitation. Then fix it normally.
The negatives are sharp but much less detailed than film. Since you arent projecting through the paper it doesn't add a lot of grain. I shoot both film and paper on a regular basis.
Hope this helps and it might have been my website I used to have directions there for paper negs and for converting polaroid cameras
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Ted Wellendorf
(K=10) - Comment Date 4/13/2007
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Is anyone still doing paper negatives? I have been using them for several months. I have also been developing them using a reversal process to obtain a direct positive.
I am trying to come up with a process for direct positive color. I get an image but it still needs some fine tuning of the filtration for correct color balance.
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Jim Noel
(K=5) - Comment Date 12/10/2007
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I use paper negatives, especially for checking the coverage of new to me old lenses. I recently taught a class in their use.
Use a single weight, fiber based paper. The speed is equivalent to about ISO 6. Develop in a soft working developer (paper developers are too contrasty for good negatives). D-23 is a good one and cheap to formulate. If a purchased developer is required, dilute D-76 about 1:4 or 1:5.
The negatives print nicely on any contact paper, or alternative process.
I just completed printing a paper negative from the 1840's on salted paper. It is now in the possession of the Museum of Photographic Art in San Diego, along with the negative which was originally in their collection.
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