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Tim Schumm
{K:28854} 5/15/2005
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great shot roger, excellent composition.
looks like a fun game....seems to have philosophical connotations.
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Antonella Nistri
{K:21867} 5/15/2005
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Even from the thumbnail I could tell it was yours!!!
It bears your trademark!
Know what I'll do in next few days? I'll lock up all my cameras and allow myself to use the Bessa L with the 21 mm. ( if it works, because the lever got stuck the last time I used it ) or the Nikon F3 with the 20 mm.
I MUST LEARN how to frame wide!!!!
Excellent picture!
Kisses!
Antonella
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Roger Williams
{K:84106} 5/15/2005
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Be warned, the film-wind lever will not ratchet. You have to move it all the way in one motion. And the meter is a center-weighted averaging meter, so watch that you don't get too much influence from the sky (or conversely a very dark, shadowed foreground). That 21mm lens is a WONDERFUL lens. I do hope you enjoy using it. And cameras don't get much simpler than the Bessa L... Have fun!
PS There is a special Cosina bubble level device that you can see out of the corner of your eye as you look through the viewfinder. If you have problems keeping the camera level and avoiding leaning verticals, I recommend it very strongly. I use it all the time, and as you know I now seldom have problems with this.
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Antonella Nistri
{K:21867} 5/15/2005
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Roger, thanks a million.....I found the bubble level device on the far left of the viewfinder.
It's extremely important, since the most difficult thing about wide angles is to hold the camera in level to avoid distortions.
I would have never noticed it without your advice!!!
About the exposure: how do I know how much I under or overexpose? Say red and green light ( next to the right exposure reading ) 1/2 a stop and red light 1 full stop? Or other?
Thank you in advance for your kind reply!
Antonella
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Roger Williams
{K:84106} 5/15/2005
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Well, Antonella, the green light alone means spot on, green and red together mean one third to one half stop over or under, and red means at least one stop over or under. It's nice having the LEDs visible outside the camera, because you can hold it towards the scene and wiggle it up and down to see the effect of sky or foreground, and choose a good compromise setting. I would suggest you shoot negative film, then you can forget about exposure. The latitude is plenty to cover any errors the meter might cause. You've seen what good colour Fuji Superia can give. Try the 200 ISO film, which is the best of the bunch for latitude and color rendering (beautiful clear, well-saturated colours), but too slow for me with my shaky hands and slow lenses.
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Chris Spracklen
{K:32552} 5/15/2005
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This Zenitar lens pulls the viewer right into the picture, Roger!
Great detail! Even at this resolution you can see individual bits of grit!!
Best regards, Chris
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Mary Brown
{K:69853} 5/16/2005
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Your Abouts really enhance enjoyment of these pictures. The 3 pictures are nicely done.
Mary
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Roger Williams
{K:84106} 5/16/2005
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Thank you Mary. Actually I feel a bit defensive about my "abouts" because really the pictures shouldn't depend on them so much. I ought to have been able to take a picture that would have made it clear what the kids were doing and what the game was. But that was beyond me (maybe if my own kids were still that young it would be possible). But this way I did get the whole stall and that guy watching them... so I guess it works reasonably well. Glad you liked them. My favourite is the one in the octopus tent!
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