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Q. Canon Digital Rebel - Underexposed Flash Photos
Asked by Paul Friedman
(K=45) on 12/25/2003
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Happy holidays everyone!
I have a new Canon Digital Rebel and a Canon Speedlite 420EX. I owned a G3 for a few months before making the splurge to the DSLR. This is my first SLR and I'm still new to photography.
I'm having an issue that perhaps someone could help me with. When taking indoor photos with the 420EX flash and 18-55mm EF-S lens, I'm having an underexposure issue. I enjoy using the Av setting but when I use that setting with the widest aperature, the sensor tells me that the shutter speed will need to be .5 seconds or longer. Then, of course, the image is horrible. I have changed the exposure compensation setting to +2 and -2 but it still requires too long of an exposure.
On the P setting it works just fine. With the exact same aperature value of 5.6 the shutter speed is the about 1/60 and the image produced is a good one.
So why should the image be underexposed in the Av setting with a wide aperature? Any help out there related to indoor flash photos would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.
Paul
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Floyd Lawrence
(K=30) - Comment Date 12/25/2003
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Paul,
Sorry I can't furnish an answer for you, but I'd like to join in the chorus. I have a Canon 10D and a 550EX Canon flash, and I have precisely the same problem you have. I cannot for the life of me get decent, consistent flash output. I depend much upon the histogram information to let me know when I'm too dark or too light, and I can't even begin to approach a "bell-shaped" histogram, which is the preferred shape.
I've scoured other forums, read all sorts of input, called Canon, but nothing has been of much help. If anyone on this forum (which I've just joined, has a response, I'd be very appreciative.
Good luck, Paul. I hope we can both beat this problem soon. It's having a bad effect on my holiday.
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/25/2003
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Paul and Floyd,
This is normal. The dedicated flash for these cameras are designed for strictly automation. Canon has put a computer chip in their cameras since the mid-70's. Since the auto-focus cameras came out, Canon decided not to put a manual over-ride in their flashes.
Also, had you ever noticed, the only aperture you are going to get, is the widest opening? That means no DOF.
The only way to correct this, is to get a flash that you can use manual settings. I use a Vivitar 283 flash, that has been around for years. Do not use an older Vivitar 283 or any older manual flashes, from the 1970's and 1980's. These flash units at this time period may too strong and may cause damage to the circuits to a new automatic camera.
Of coarse, you have to set your camera to manual on shutter and aperture. The highest shutter speed you use on the Rebel Digital is 1/250. Ensured you also set your desired ISO Speed.
Check out my lizard shots in my portfolio. It was done with a manual flash (Vivitar 283) and Rebel Digital.
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/25/2003
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Paul
For today, I will recommend to use the P setting. You can use the A-DEP mode with the flash, but it will be the same as the P setting. Unless, you know somebody with a manual flash, you are stuck using automatiom flash. Sorry.
Do you a have tripod? You can use the AV setting with the 420 EX. The subjects must be still, until shutter is finished or tripped back. Also, if you don't have a cable release or tripod, you can use the self timer, and the prop the camera on a flat surface. Make sure your camera doesn't fall.
Click on my name to get to my portfolio.
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Floyd Lawrence
(K=30) - Comment Date 12/25/2003
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Thanks, Brendon. I do have a Vivitar 283, but I'm certain it's one of the older ones. Thought I was doing myself a big favor by getting the 550 flash, but it doesn't appear to be so. I did notice how the aperture when using the flash never seems to go higher than 4.0 or 5.6.
Right now I'm trying to find some formula for using + or - adjustments on the flash, but even when I get a fair shot, it's always weighted quite heavily on the dark (left) side of the histogram.
Ironic...using my rangefinder cameras with distance-settings on my Vivitar flash, I get better lighting results than with the DSLR D10 and the dedicated 550 flash.
Floyd
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Dmitry Gringauz
(K=1157) - Comment Date 12/25/2003
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Hi, Folks,
I've used both D30 and 10D with an older Canon flash, 380EX, and with the MT-24EX (macro) flash, that has similar controls to the 420/550 flashers.
Paul and Floyd,
With EX series of flashes, Canon allows full control of flash exposure from the camera body (even when they are off-camera, when the off-camera cord is used). Make sure you read up in the manual the difference between Exposure Compensation (EC) and Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC). The first one controls camera reaction to ambient light, the second one controls flash output. To start with, make sure that both are disabled.
When using flash in AV mode, make sure that the flash is set to fully automatic operation on the flash controls (no manual compensation or manual settings via flash interface). Make sure flash is set to low-sync speed (camera flash sync speed 1/200, as opposed to high-speed sync). There is a custom function setting on the 10D (and 300D, I believe) that controls the flash sync shutter speed (CF3 on 10d). That CF setting either allows camera to peg the shutter speed at 1/200, or allow the camera to pick the best one. You should also examine settings of CF14 and CF15 (on 10D, may be different on 300D), they can make a difference in exposue settings also. Also, Canon allows you to tie metering priority to the selected AF point, make sure that the setting is to your liking, it can also make a difference.
Put the camera in AV mode and turn on the flash. Wait until the flash symbol (little lightning bold) lights up in the viewfinder. This indicates that the camera established communications with the flash. You should see the shutter speed set somewhere between 60 and 200, depending on the settings you selected in CF3. Press the AE Lock button. Flash should fire a "preflash" used to measure the exposure. Light or LCD on the flash should indicate whether flash was able to produce enough light to illuminate the scene at a given aperture/shutter selection. If you see a problem, most likely either a camera or flash setting somewhere is screwed up, and you need to go back to the manual. You may want to consider getting a Lantern guide to one of your Canon cameras, it is a bit more readable than the owner's manual. Canon flash controls are very flexible, but there is a lot to learn.
Brendon,
Many 3rd party flashes, both studio and hand-held, can utilize high "tripping" voltages that may damage camera electronics. Older flashes are more likely to have that "feature", but not necessarily -- some of the inexpensive new ones still have it.
Usually, flashes connected through an on-camera hot shoe are more likely to cause trouble than flashes connected through the camera PC connector (dedicated flash connector that is present on 10D and D30, do not know about 300D). If in doubt, never attach a 3-rd party flash, especially the older one, to the on-camera hot shoe. PC connectors appear to be engineered for this type of problem, and are a lot less susceptible. Of course, not all cameras have PC connectors. Which brings me to the next point, hot-shoe to PC cord converters.
Beware of the low-cost hot-shoe-to-PC-cord converters. These are little gizmos that slide into the camera hot shoe, and have a PC cord connector on them for external/studio flashes. Before buying or using one on a newer electronic camera, make sure that it has a voltage protection circuitry in it. Most of these gizmoes do not, but there are a few models that do, like Wein Safe-Sync.
Bear in mind that although newer Vivitar units do not exibit this problem, nowhere does it explicitly say that it is safe to use them connected directly to the camera hot shoe. I use a 285 unit (absolutely great piece of equipment), and I usually connect it either through PC connector or using a Wein converter. Getting a volage-controlled converter (~$30 or so) is a fairly good insurance policy for a pricey piece of equipment.
D.
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/25/2003
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Thanks Dimtry, for the information. You are right about the third party flashes. There were some things I left out: the PC cord or off shoe cord; Wein flash converter. I do used a off shoe cord. I have a hard time to find a flash converter here in Kansas. So far, I am having trouble using the 283.
Unfortunately, the Digital Rebel, it is a basic consumer camera. Even though, it is a great camera and its' share most features, it won't compare to the D10, Elans, ..etc..etc. Just like its Rebel film cousins, it don't have the CF commands.
I do have the 380EX flash. It works great with my Elan, but very inconsistant with the Rebel Digital. I had tried different settings with it. I throught about upgrading to the 420EX or 550EX, but I read similar complaints with other photographers using Canon digital cameras. I heard Mertz works well with Canon digital cameras. So, to save a litttle money, I went back to the Vivitar 283. It's a newer one, made in China, instead of Japan.
You are also right about the owner manual. Not much information. I stand corrected, the highest shutter speed is 1/200, not 1/250. At AV mode, the manual says the camera will set at AUTO (30 to 1/200 second). It does not, the meter read the actual ambient light and set the shutter accordingly.
Again, thanks for your info, and have a Merry Christmas.
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Dmitry Gringauz
(K=1157) - Comment Date 12/26/2003
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Folks,
My apologies here. I did not realize to what extent Canon "crippled" 300D firmware. I knew it was more limited than 10D, but did not know that they completely eliminated custom functions. The bulk of what I said below applies to D30, and 10D, cameras that I had some experience with.
Brendon, I got my Safe-Sync adapter mail-order from B&H Photo, www.bhphotovideo.com, a couple of years ago. Wein still lists it as a current product, I would guess that B&H might still carry it.
D.
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/26/2003
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Opps! I meant, I am not having any troubles with the 283.
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Daniel Taylor
(K=3495) - Comment Date 12/27/2003
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You need to read the EX flash manual and experiment a bit to really understand what the camera is doing in each mode with a flash attached. I don't think Canon does a good enough job of explaining when/why you would use each mode, nor do they really drive home the point that in Tv/Av/M the E-TTL flash metering is a distinct event from the metering which affects the settings and/or read out. When you press the shutter half way, the camera is judging ambient light. When you fire the settings for ambient light are used (Tv/Av) but the camera controls flash output with E-TTL.
I don't agree that you need an older manual flash for good flash shots, in fact I would recommend against it. Canon's E-TTL meterming is almost certainly better than the internal metering of older flashes. Plus you lose high speed sync (>1/200) with an older flash.
Some notes before I explain each mode: remember that an EX flash will only sync to higher shutter speeds if you have high speed sync set on the flash. Also, one drawback to the Rebel is that you have no Flash Exposure Compensation (FEC) in the body, so you're stuck with whatever flash output the camera determines is right. Canon's flash system is pretty good, but I do notice a variance of up to +/- 1 stop from what's "correct". This is generally within the usable range, especially with Photoshop, though more consistency would be nice. I believe the 550 EX will allow FEC with the Rebel because there are FEC controls on the flash itself.
Finally, in general flash photography is difficult. There's a reason why portrait photographers use multiple studio strobes with devices to make the light softer, set at different angles to "shape" the light around the subject. An SLR flash is certainly an improvement over the tiny flashes in P&S cameras, but it's still difficult to hit that sweet spot of flash output/subject distance where a subject is well exposed but there's no glare. Background is also always an issue. Typically enough flash power to get the background will glare out the subject, proper exposure of the subject will lose the background with that murky "there but not quite" look.
Here are the modes...
Manual
You control aperture and shutter. The camera will use the flash to make a proper exposure at the settings you choose. It will complain that there's not enough light even though it will use the flash to make enough light. Pros/Cons: IMHO, this is the mode to use for most situations because you can arrest ambient light motion blur AND control DoF. Set your shutter speed to the highest normal X-sync available (1/200) which will arrest motion blur while conserving power. (High speed sync uses a lot more power so only use shutter speeds >1/200 when you need them.) Set your aperture to something decent (i.e. f/5.6 or f/8) which will keep more of the scene in focus and hide AF errors. (AF accuracy drops considerably in low light with any camera.) Use an ISO of 400 or 800 to improve flash recycle and shoot away.
Program Mode
You have no control over shutter or aperture. The camera typically chooses the widest aperture and a shutter speed of 1/60. I think the camera is trying to get a good exposure with minimal flash output (save batteries) and assumes the flash will freeze motion. Pros/Cons: You can't control DoF. The flash won't arrest motion blur involving ambient light. Not much pro except it's the "dummy proof" mode. I never use it with flash.
Shutter Priority Tv
You control the shutter speed and the camera chooses the aperture based on a reading of the ambient light. What this means in low light is that the camera will choose the widest aperture and complain that there's not enough light even though it will use the flash to make enough light. Pros/Cons: You can set higher shutter speeds to arrest motion blur involving ambient light. You have no control over DoF. Better than Program, but why not go Manual and control DoF?
Aperture Priority Av
You control the aperture and the camera chooses the shutter speed based on a reading of the ambient light. What this means in low light is that the camera will choose a shutter speed to make a good exposure as if there was no flash attached, but the flash will fire and expose properly when you shoot. Pros/Cons: This mode would seem to be pointless because any shot with ambient light would be ruined by motion blur. There is one exception though: when mounted on a tripod, you can use this mode to expose a foreground subject with flash (i.e. person) while still recording the ambient ligth and "scene" in the background (i.e. a cityscape). This is also the mode to use for fill flash in daylight.
Hope this helps!
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Daniel Taylor
(K=3495) - Comment Date 12/27/2003
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One more comment --- in Manual mode if it looks like you can record the background ambient light with a slower shutter speed, go ahead and do so. You still need to account for motion blur, both of the subject and your hand holding the lens. But if you had a 28mm lens attached, still subjects, and 1/60 or 1/45 would capture the background, you'll end up with a better photo.
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/27/2003
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Daniel,
Counter point.
What Pual was trying to asked, is why he can't get a flash sync when switch to the Av position on the command dial? You did very good explaining it in your forum. But this question has been asked by several times. When a person wants DOF, and select an Aperture using a dedicated TTL flash, where is the flash sync?
Again, the simple answer, there is none in aperture priority. I've been using Canon and other flashes for over 25 years. TTL flashes will only produced and balanced enough artifical light from the subject to the lens and camera sensor. To get a TLL flash sync automatically to freeze motion under low light, you have to select program mode.
It still baffles me, why the manufacturers, can't design a flash or a camera. That a person can select an aperture in the Av position, let the camera automatically select a flash sync, and let the flash produced enough light to reflect off the subject. Instead, the camera selects the aperture for you. Depending on the EOS cameras, flashes and lenses, it is almost the widest opening. The T-90 and the 300TL, depending on the FD lens, gave a mid-range aperture.
Using the Exposure compensation only help a little. If I needed DOF or wanted to be creative. I found out a manual flash came in handy. I know a lot Canon EOS photographers are still using manual flashes.
I got a handful Canon speedlite flashes. Like all other photography equipment, the speedlites are use for their applications, most likely; photojornalisum, candids, and sports.
Automation does has it limits. That why it is still fun to go manual now and then. ie, focus, selecting ISO, exposure,
flashes, etc..etc
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Paul Friedman
(K=45) - Comment Date 12/27/2003
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Folks, thanks a lot for all of your very thorough responses. It's a lot of information to digest but I think it will start to sink in after a few readings and LOTS of practice. Thanks again and Happy New Year!
Paul
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Daniel Taylor
(K=3495) - Comment Date 12/27/2003
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"What Pual was trying to asked, is why he can't get a flash sync when switch to the Av position on the command dial? You did very good explaining it in your forum. But this question has been asked by several times. When a person wants DOF, and select an Aperture using a dedicated TTL flash, where is the flash sync?"
This is the part that Canon doesn't explain well. Flash metering is distinct from the metering that sets the shutter speed when you press the shutter release half way in Av mode. That's why when Paul uses Av mode he get's 5s exposure times at the widest aperture and the image is ruined. The camera is metering ambient light.
Though it's counter intuitive, when you want to control DoF with a flash, you need to switch to manual mode and set the aperture/shutter speed you want. The flash will adjust its output accordingly.
"To get a TLL flash sync automatically to freeze motion under low light, you have to select program mode."
You can select manual mode and have full control over your shutter and aperture values and the flash will sync fine. Yeah, the viewfinder display will say you're under exposing the image because, again, it's metering ambient light. But when you actually fire the E-TTL metering will control flash output to insure a good image at the settings you've chosen. And with an EX flash, it will sync to any shutter speed you choose.
I did side-by-side tests to confirm this when I was trying to figure out Canon's flash system. I took one shot in P mode (1/60s at widest aperture) and another in manual (1/200s and f/8). The image exposure on the histogram was virtually identical, but I had much better DoF. The flash will sync in manual mode.
"It still baffles me, why the manufacturers, can't design a flash or a camera. That a person can select an aperture in the Av position, let the camera automatically select a flash sync, and let the flash produced enough light to reflect off the subject."
I don't know why Canon designed Av mode to use an ambient light shutter speed rather than a flash sync shutter speed when an EX flash is attached. I'll agree it's counter intuitive, and Canon doesn't give enough detail in the manuals to explain it. When you want to control DoF, you naturally go to Av and expect the camera to choose a shutter speed based on the fact that a flash is attached. It doesn't for the reasons stated, and the solution is to use manual mode.
"Using the Exposure compensation only help a little. If I needed DOF or wanted to be creative. I found out a manual flash came in handy. I know a lot Canon EOS photographers are still using manual flashes."
I really don't know what could be accomplished by a manual flash that couldn't also be accomplished in manual mode with an EX flash. When you attach a manual flash you set your mode to manual, correct? So you're choosing your Av/Tv settings and letting the flash control its own output to sync up. Same thing with an EX flash, except that the EX flash will sync >1/200s and will use the camera's 35-zone meter to judge its output. It will also talk to the camera, so you don't have to fiddle with any settings on the flash to explain the Av/Tv/ISO values you're using.
One other note: I'm going to do some tests with my 10D using center weighted metering instead of evaluative. Something somebody said about flash metering on another forum clicked with me, and made me realize that Canon flash exposures may be varying +/- 1 stop for me because evaluative metering is tied to the selected focus point. I would be willing to bet that CW metering is better for flash use, and will be testing that theory.
If so, it's another failure on Canon's part to explain to us what's the best way to get good flash exposures with their equipment (sigh).
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/28/2003
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Daniel,
Well, I stand corrected. I guess, I learned something everyday. You taught an old dog new tricks. I picked up and experimented with my Rebel Digital this morning. I went to manual, selected 1/60 second, chose my aperture, and fired away with both built-in flash and 380EX off flash. Both flash compensated the correct output.
I should had remembered this with the T-90 and the 300TL flash. When I made my E-7 in the service in the 80's, I put it the side. When I did get the chance to used my cameras, it was my manual cameras in the field. After a few years after the service, I went back to the T-90, but I also got an Elan IIe and 380EX. As you mentioned, Canon's manual is not informative. And being a civilian, I turned out to be some what conservative with my film. Now, with digital cameras, that will change.
I will like to say, "Thanks", for your input. The attachment is what I practiced this morning.
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Brendon Cordero
(K=3524) - Comment Date 12/28/2003
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Forgot the attachement. Digital Rebel, pop up flash, EF 28mm
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Daniel Taylor
(K=3495) - Comment Date 12/28/2003
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Brendon -
I stand a bit corrected as well. All this talk about flashes had me searching the web last night for more information. Come to find out that D30 and D60 users are using old manual flashes a lot because the focus point bias on those bodies is so extreme with E-TTL there can be a 2-3 stop variance between frames just because the AF point is shifted slightly from one to the next.
Supposedly the 10D and 300D are better in that regard, but I still see +/- 1 stop variance across frames that should be better exposed.
I think perhaps the best bet is to try and pick a neutral color target at the same distance as the subject and use Flash Exposure Lock.
I know that a camera's meter is biased when measuring ambient light as well and that no meter is perfect, but the bias with flash seems to be a bit more extreme. Now I'm a bit tempted to get and try a Vivitar 283 and see if the on flash eye actually does produce more consistent results.
Live and learn :-)
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Daniel Taylor
(K=3495) - Comment Date 12/28/2003
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This link will prove extremely useful to those trying to understand how to make the best use of E-TTL with a body like the 10D.
http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=137317&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=2&vc=1
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Arthur Evans
(K=92) - Comment Date 1/1/2004
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I also have a Digital Rebel, a 420EX, and underexposure issues. It took a while, but I finally discovered the answer: Flash exposure compensation (FEC). The default setting is 0, and the camera firmware does not allow any adjustments (I understand the higher end Canon cameras do) -- HOWEVER! -- There are several programs on the web that allow you to set this +/- 2 stops. Adjusting the FEC to +2/3 made ALL the difference in the world for me. This setting remains in effect until you change it, and works with both the pop-up and external flash units. (I was ready to get rid of my camera until I discovered this!)
Here's the link for the program I used:
http://revolution.cx/rcx/fecset.htm
Take a look at the 'underexposed' picture link on this page -- I'll bet your pictures look just like these.
Make sure your PC is able to 'talk' to your camera (You have loaded the Canon software, haven't you?). The camera needs to be in 'P' mode. Hit the connect button and make the change. You won't get any feedback indicating the change happened, but you'll sure see the difference on your next test shot. The FEC compenstation also shows up when using the FileViewer (or when reviewing photos on the LCD - push the 'info' button). +2/3 seems to do the trick.
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Arthur Evans
(K=92) - Comment Date 1/1/2004
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Oh, one more thing: This only affects creative mode settings (P, Tv, Av, etc.) - the basic settings still default to 0 FEC.
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Paul Friedman
(K=45) - Comment Date 1/1/2004
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Hy AT,
Thanks a lot for that link! I downloaded the software and changed the FEC by 2/3. I think it's working but I need a bit more experimentation to be certain. Thanks a bunch!
Paul
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Arthur Evans
(K=92) - Comment Date 1/1/2004
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Paul - Glad to hear that this 'fix' helped you too! Don't forget to look at the exposure data by using the FileViewer (or using the camera LCD and pushing the 'info' button). There will be information displayed in both cases that will verify the +2/3 adjustment you've made.
(Hopefully this will adjustment will be available in a future firmware release...)
Best regards
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Arthur Evans
(K=92) - Comment Date 1/2/2004
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Paul -
Did you say that you had good results using the flash in the 'P' mode? This is where I was having problems, until I started shooting flash in 'full-auto' mode (using the pop-up). In this mode, the camera can adjust the ISO speed automatically, and my results have improved. Also, using the 420EX, the 'sports' setting seems to yield good results. (Note that I still have the FEC set to +2/3 for the 'creative' modes -- but in the 'basic' modes mentioned above it defaults back to 0).
I'm trying to figure out the root cause of the problem here -- some people have no flash problems, while others (including me) were just about ready to throw the camera away! Is this issue largely dependent on the mode setting?
If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them....
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Arthur Evans
(K=92) - Comment Date 1/2/2004
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..and just more thing, then I'll let it drop -- I promise! I have no idea if using the FEC program has any effect on the camera warranty, so run it at your own risk. I (nervously) downloaded and ran the program, as I was desperate to get the camera to work properly. Fortunately, I had no problems.....
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Paul Friedman
(K=45) - Comment Date 1/5/2004
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OK - I've played around with it for a few days now. I set the FEC to +1 (not +1/3). Now, indoor pictures with the flash at ISO 100 come out bright, crisp and vibrant!!! I usually use the M setting but sometimes at the Av or Tv setting as well. The histogram yields a nice curve - not weighted to the left like before.
Great stuff - I highly recommend the software to anyone else having "darkness" issues. Thanks again, AT!
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Arthur Evans
(K=92) - Comment Date 1/7/2004
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Here's where I've ended up (so far) with my flash settings for reasonably successful shots most of the time:
- I always shoot in Tv mode (never P for flash). I've read that in P mode the camera tends to favor the foreground and higher shutter speeds in flash mode, which can leave the background looking rather dark).
- Whenever I can, I use the FEL (flash exposure lock). This allows quite a bit of control over the result. Hold down the shutter 1/2 way, then push and hold the FEL (*) button with your thumb (which will quickly illuminate the flash to set the exposure). I believe that the camera goes into partial metering mode (center 9% of the image -- I know it does this when using AE lock without the flash in creative modes) -- and so you can preset the exposure by moving off the subject if need be BEFORE you push and hold the FEL button. Aiming at a darker/non-reflective object will result in a higher flash output and vice-versa. Push and hold FEL, reposition the camera, then take the shot. This really does work quite well, although it does tend to slow things down a bit -- and you have to practice a little. This also works with the 420EX external flash unit. (Just be sure to warn people not to walk away after they see the first flash!)
- If you're using the kit lens, remember that it's pretty slow. (At 55mm, the best you can do is f/5.6). You may have to bump up the ISO speed to compensate. This certainly increases the noise level, but at least your exposure might be improved.
- I've set my FEC back to 0 or maybe +1/3. I've ended up with some overexposed shots going much higher, and these are really impossible to fix afterwards.
Daniel L. Taylor (see the previous comments) was right on the money when he says that flash photography is difficult!
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Martin Woudstra
(K=1084) - Comment Date 2/18/2004
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Hi folks,
I just registered for this site and I want to thank you for the FEC hack and all the other tips for making better flash pics. I just ran the FEC-program and now my flash pics look bright and vivid. I use a Sigma DG 500 ST flash and I'm very happy with it. It's almost a copy of the EX 420 with just some more features, for about half the price.
A little info about myself: male, 50 yrs. married and -among other things- I make a few bucks with photography. Since 2 years I went 100% digital because I like to be in control over the whole process from taking the pic till processing it. I have my 300D equipped with a canon EF17-40L F/4 lens which I can recommend strongly to every digital slr Canon user! It's a great peace of optics. Further on I have a 90-300 usm lens (which is soon to be replaced by the 70-200L F/4). I process my pictures in Photoshop.
My main interest in photography is outdoors/streetlife, although I earn my money in making family pics or portraits on location. I will submit some pics soon.
Regards,
Martin
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